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KNIFE BUILD OPTIONS AND SPECIFICATIONS’ RELATED QUESTIONNAIRE 

 

This section is made up of two parts.
 

Part 1.  In this part I list the knife build related questions and expand as best I can on the options available to you. Once you've gone through part one, you should be in a much better position to know what is best for you.
 

Part 2.   In this part I list the actual questions. The idea is that if you would like to proceed with a knife order, you simply select, copy and then paste the questions into your e-mail to me. Once pasted into your e-mail to me, you simply input your answers and when done, send it to me at paulakafrenchy plus @talktalk.net (please join the two blue parts to make my full e-mail address). Please put 'Frenchy's Knife Specs Questionnaire' in the subject heading so your e-mail doesn't end in the Spam bin.   

Alternatively... You contact me direct and start the process off that way just in case you further details etc. Then I can send you the 'Knife Build/Specs' questionnaire directly. If you choose this route, please contact me at the above address and put 'Frenchy's Website Communication' as the subject heading. If you miss out the subject heading your e-mail could end up in the Spam bin never to be seen again!    
 

Getting the details right is important and we should not leave anything to chance. We both need to be clear as to what you wish from me and whether I can fulfil your needs or not. I can advise you to your heart’s content about specific aspects of your knife build, however, I cannot decide for you. The final choice is down to you because it’s your knife, your satisfaction and your pleasure…  


OK, here we go… Part 1:

 

1.   Which Knife model would you like me to make for you? This is fairly straightforward when it comes to my regular models, but needs a bit more thought when it comes to the special limited run ones. Full details of each knife model are listed on the relevant webpage, including the pricing structure.

The TALISMAN MK4 (D2 steel) – 5mm thick – Scandi grind – the leader of the pack!

The TALISMAN MK3 (440c Surgical Steel) - 4mm thick – Scandi grind – Low maintenance - so ideal for knife for when a stainless steel knife is called for.

The TALISMAN MK3 (Damascus Steel) - 4mm thick – Scandi grind, but can be had with a secondary grind so as to preserve the patterning along the primary bevel.

The GUARDIAN (D2 Steel) – 5mm thick – Scandi grind – no ordinary Bushcraft tool; beautiful and very practical.

The DL1 (D2 Steel) – 4mm thick – Scandi grind - the nearest profile I've got to the original Woodlore - but slightly larger all round.

The ALLROUNDER (D2 Steel) - 4mm thick – Scandi grind – the name says it all.

The ALLROUNDER (440C Surgical Steel) - 4mm thick – Scandi grind – Low maintenance version.

The SHADOW (D2 Steel) - 4mm thick – Scandi grind – Quite a traditional Bushcraft type knife in profile, but overall more substantial than the average Bushcrafter.

The BEAVER (D2 Steel) - 4mm thick – Scandi grind – A very handy compact sturdy knife for use on its own or paired up with the Shadow.

The SHADOW/BEAVER SET – (D2 Steel) - 4mm/4mm – Scandi grind - Good combo and you save a bit of money too.

 

ONE OF THE SPECIAL LIMITED MODELS – Damasteel, RWL-34 etc. – As shown on the relevant webpage. Can you state which one exactly please?

 

The CSK185 WILKINSON SWORD DARTMOOR CUSTOM KNIFE MK2 (440c steel) As of August 2015 with a strong and sharp full Scandi grind that I apply myself from scratch!

 

The VALIANT - (D2 Steel) - A versatile large Bush tool for medium to and big jobs - a big fat Leuku as that's what it's based on! Ideal partner to the Guardian (but not in a Piggyback Sheath unless you're 7' tall!!!) A discount will apply when the Valiant and the Guardian are bought as a set.


 

2.   What's your preferred type of grind?

 

When commissioning a new Custom knife you should have some choice as to what type of cutting edge the knife has. So please read what I have to say and choose accordingly...

 

Unless I state otherwise, my knives come with either of two cutting edges. These are:

 

1. A true single primary Scandi type grind down to zero degree.

2. A Scandi type grind with a secondary bevel to the primary grind.

 

1. THE SCANDI GRIND OPTION - As standard, all my knives come with a single Scandi type grind, ground to a 0 degree cutting edge. This type of single bevel has superior wood carving abilities when compared to other types of grinds. The Scandi grind is popular with experienced Bushcrafters who are practiced in sharpening such a grind using flat Japanese type whetstones. On the downside however, if the knife is abused, it is more prone to edge rolling and/or chipping than knives with a secondary or convex bevel. Generally speaking, it’s often stated in sale's blurb that a Scandi grind is easy to maintain and sharpen. That’s true enough in the hands of experienced users, but in my personal experience, the easy bit doesn't come without a lot of practice as the learning curve can be steep and prolonged for the average 'Scandi Grind' Virgin! I've long felt duty bound to point out that it could takes some time to become proficient at producing a uniform finish all along the grind, particularly so towards the front curved part of the blade. There really are no shortcuts and patience and perseverance go hand in hand with sharpening a knife with a Scandi grind.
 

The knife you get from me will be good and sharp, of that you can be certain. Without going all technical, it's worth knowing that the deeper the Scandi grind is into the blade, the less resistance there'll be to the cutting action and thus the better the knife will cut. Conversely though, the finer the edge, the probability of the edge chipping and/or rolling  is increased if the knife is abused. So in a way there's a compromise of sorts in actual use. Initially therefore, one should take a little more care when using a new knife and bear in mind that a knife is a cutting tool first and foremost; it's not an Axe, a prising bar or machete! Take your time to handle the knife and start off with simple tasks making sure to maintain a straight cutting action. Avoid as much as you can twisting/wiggling the knife at the end of the cutting action. A Bushcraft type knife is meant to be a good all-rounder and at some time or other it's going to be used for bigger tasks than it was designed for. As experienced Bushcrafters know, while a new knife that is shaving sharp is a great asset, they also know that the knife can serve them better and stronger after it's been sharpened a few times and  get into the habit of stropping the blade on a regular basis, thus making the edge even stronger as stropping the blade tends to produce a slightly convex cutting edge even if not obviously discernable. Another option is to create a micro bevel on the whetstone by lifting the blade some 15 to 20 degrees beyond the bevel face and make a few passes until you’re satisfied with the end result. As I’ve no control over how skilful a sharpener the end user is or how he/she might use the knife, I can only offer advice based on my personal experience gained over a number of years the hard way! I've demonstrated the various sharpening procedures that I use on a regular basis to a number of people and I can honestly say that even the keenest of users needed to be shown time and again before they managed to get the hang of sharpening a Scandi grind. Quite a few just couldn't manage it at all, even after several sessions! I've seen me sort a knife out in an hour, but some needed a couple of hours on average. The worst session I ever had was after I agreed to apply a Scandi grind by hand to a WS Dartmoor knife - it took me over 5 hours of continuous sharpening as I was determined not to get beat! Bad mistake though, as I ached for days afterwards and vowed that I'll never undertake that sort of sharpening ever again! I love a good Scandi grind, but I hope that what I've imparted to you here will enable you to consider the various aspects I mentioned and your intended end use for the knife. That way, I hope you'll be better able to decide on which type of grind will be best for you in the long term.      

2. THE SECONDARY BEVEL OPTION  - For quite some time I was oblivious and even neglectful to the needs of folk who don't care much about a knife with a Scandi grind. I was stuck in assuming that all Bushcrafting type people are only interested in owning a knife with a shaving sharp Scandi grind! In general, there are far more users of knives with a Primary and Secondary bevel than there are of knives with a Scandi grind. So I decided to gear myself up to also offer any of my knives with a secondary bevel. This type of cutting edge configuration is very common and found on sporting knives (as a secondary grind to a flat or hollow primary grind mostly), Chef's knives, Household knives etc. This type of grind is generally stronger in use and less prone to chipping/rolling. Once again, the deeper the secondary bevel is into the blade, the cleaner it'll cut, but obviously more delicate. No cutting edge of any knife is immune form chipping and rolling if abused, but assuming the knife is made from good quality steel, then a knife with a secondary bevel is very suitable for general use.

The sharpening of a knife with a secondary bevel can be as difficult or as easy as you want to make it. The hard way is to sharpen your knife on a whetstone of some sort making sure you keep the knife at the correct angle or, as you see most Butchers and Chefs do, through the use of a largish sharpening steel, be it real steel or Ceramic. This way of sharpening is OK in the short term, but sooner or later the knives will have to be sharpened properly and the secondary bevel set at the correct angle. And so the process is repeated ad infinitum...

With such a common cutting edge configuration, there are a number of ingenious sharpening systems available; from the simple gizmo type right through to the high end expensive, but efficient and effective systems sure to make your knife sharpening experience a very satisfactory one. As my needs are varied I own a good number of Japanese type Whetstones which I mainly use to sharpen Scandi grinds. To sharpen knives with a secondary grind I make use of a fixed angle sharpening system called 'EdgePro', an expensive USA made sharpening system that I'm very happy with. I've tried a few other systems, from electric ones to hand held manual ones like Gatco, Lansky etc., but nothing compares to the 'EdgePro' system. Unfortunately the cost of a USA made original is considerable, but for me it's been a good investment. I was so impressed with the system that at one time I held stocks of the 'Apex' system made by the same company. It still wasn't that cheap, but it worked well and was compact and portable.

 

There are cheaper, but very similar alternatives to the EdgePro fixed angle sharpening system, a couple of versions of which I stock myself. But no matter where you get a good fixed angle sharpening system from, as long as it does  the job and you're happy using it, who cares. I cannot but recommend a fixed angle system because I've tried several other systems, but none can do as good and easy job as a proper fixed system. Remember though, these systems are not suitable for sharpening a proper Scandi grind. 

Should you specify a Scandi type grind and find you can’t get on with it, you can always add a secondary or micro bevel if you want to using either of my two systems. If you can’t manage it for whatever reason, send the knife back to me.
Sharpening a knife with a secondary bevel is easy enough when using a fixed angle sharpening system. Forget the slot type manual/electric machines if you want an above average sharp knife. Instead, go for a fixed angle Sharpening system and you'll be set up for life not just for sharpening your custom knife, but also most if not all your knives at home! The learning curve is short and as there are 'How to' videos on the EdgePro site and You Tube, it's next to impossible to get it wrong. Just have a little practice on a couple of your ordinary knives at home and you'll soon get proficient at it. I attend fund raising Game/Country shows and people are amazed at the speed I can go at; but I'm well practised as I've sharpened hundreds of knives now. What matters most is not the speed, but the end result of having a knife well and truly sharp to perform safely and efficiently with. Whether you buy a system from me or wherever, I cannot but highly recommend these fixed angle sharpening systems - they're really useful and far superior to any far more expensive gimmicky system promoted with excessive hype and marketing bullshit!        

 

So which cutting edge is best for you? The choice is entirely yours no matter which knife model you settle for. There's plenty of information available online about types of grinds and sharpening. You can check out my 'Articles' page for details about types of grinds, sharpening etc.

 

Rest assured that no matter which cutting edge you opt for when commissioning a knife from me, you can bet your bottom dollar that it'll have a very keen cutting edge and very likely to be one of the sharpest, if not the sharpest knife you'll have ever had the pleasure of owning.  

 

3.   What type of handle material would you like your knife to have?  Seems an easy enough question to answer, but as I spoil you for choice, you can be forgiven for being hesitant. Any handle material you choose ought to be based on more than just aesthetics. You should consider end use and environmental situations as well. I take great pride in the way I prepare and finish knife handles. A quick superficial coating to catch the eye is not my way. Many of my woods are stabilised by me using ‘Cactus Juice’ from the USA. The ones I don’t stabilise are soaked in an Oil mix for three to four days and then left to dry for a week or more and wet sanded as many times as are necessary to provide a nice smooth finish. The final finish is achieved through applying hard wax via a Buffer, which really makes for a nice superior finish. I must leave the final choice to you, but I’ll advise you if your choice is not to your benefit or conflicts with your intended end use. You can choose handle materials here http://www.customknivesandsticks.co.uk/antlerhornwood.htm
Do bear in mind that at the time you wish to place an order, there could be a very slight chance that I might not have your preferred woods. It's a very rare occurrence, but I must state this. The cost of the handle materials vary and the consequence of being able to offer a such a variety of woods comes at a cost. I work on the principle of 'swings and roundabouts' on an average cost basis. However, some woods are so expensive, that I need to apply a surcharge to cover the extra costs. The final choice as always, is down to you...


1st preference:

2nd preference:

    3rd preference:

 

4.   What colour Fibre Liners would you like? Fibre liners are not just meant to make the knife’s handle look nice. They serve a practical purpose as well, acting as a sort of shock absorber between the handle material and the steel as both contract and expand at differing rates during certain environmental conditions. Without the use of fibre liners, there’s more of a chance that gaps between the handle material and the blade will develop. I’m so convinced that the use of fibre liners is beneficial, that I’ll not accept a commission for a knife without them.
       
Red, Black, White, Blue or Green?

 

5.   What size hands would you say you have? I’m not an advocate of one handle size fits all and prefer to contour a knife’s handle according to the end users’ hand size. We don't have flat palms, so why have a flat sided knife handle in a custom knife? The shaping of the handle itself I do as per 'Coke Bottle' shape, which provides for an anatomically full-in-the hand grip that is safe, comfortable and aesthetically pleasing. It's not just the handle material that I shape according to hand size, but the knife handle itself as need be, that's why some knives of the same model might appear slightly dissimilar on the handle part - the blade end is never altered though.

Small, Medium or Large?

 

6. What kind of handle retaining pins would you like? The handle material is glued to the knife handle using industrial strength two part Epoxy Resin glue. The handle is further secured with three pins and a lanyard tube. Most makers use just two pins, but I’ve always preferred using three. No matter your final choice, they all do the same job, although Mosaic pins stand out and make any handle that much nicer/classier.
    
Standard Brass / Silvered Steel / Copper / Mosaic pins?

 

7.  Do you want a Standard Sheath with a fixed length belt loop or one with an added adjustable Dangler loop? The type of Sheath I make is a standard British type with a fixed Belt loop to accommodate a 2” wide belt. As an extra, I can also provide you with a removable/adjustable ‘Dangler’ loop that attaches to the fixed belt loop via a ‘D’ ring. This extension provides for greater freedom of movement and easier access to the knife when wearing 3/4 coats etc. (NB: Piggyback Sheaths are normally only available with a fixed belt loop. You need to over 6’ to wear these Sheaths with a Dangler loop and still look cool! I’m 5’ 7” and I look daft wearing a Piggyback Sheath hanging from a Dangler loop!

Standard Sheath or one With Dangler loop?


 

8.   Do you want a Firesteel loop incorporated into the Sheath to suit a 9mm thick Firesteel or Ceramic rod? Please note that there’s only space for one such loop on all of the Sheaths I make, including a Piggyback Sheath.

Yes / No?
  

9.   Do you want a Firesteel? Whether it's a Firesteel or a Ceramic rod you ask for, I use 3mm thick elastic to help keep it secure on the Sheath. If either one is to be carried on the body, than I can provide a paracord lanyard if you ask me for it.

 

   Yes / No  

 

10.   Do you want a Ceramic Rod sharpener? Feel free to order both Firesteel and Ceramic rods as long as you take into account that if you order both, then one or the other must be carried about one’s person. I always include a lanyard hole in the handles. Unless instructed otherwise, Firesteel/Ceramic rod handle will be of similar material to the knife’s handle. By similar I mean of the same wood species as for the knife handle and not necessarily a perfect match, because such handles cannot always be cut from the same block the knife scales are cut from.   

Yes / No?

 

11. Which hand would you normally use to work with the knife? This has a bearing on which side of the body the Sheath is traditionally worn as for question 12.

Left hand / Right hand?

 

12. Which side of your body will you normally wear your Sheath? Conventionally, whichever side the Sheath is worn, the stitched edge (and Firesteel/Ceramic loop) will face forward so you draw/insert the knife with the cutting edge against the Welt. Also, with my deep friction fit Sheaths, drawing the knife is normally a two handed exercise across the body.  Basically if you’re left handed, then you would wear the Sheath on the right and draw the knife with the left hand across the body. If you’re right handed, you wear the Sheath on the left and draw the knife across the body with the right hand. That said, you can throw convention to the wind and wear the Sheath whichever side you want to, but it makes sense to always draw the knife against the welt! If you want to wear the Sheath on the same side of the hand which you want to draw the knife with, then the consider which way around you want the Sheath to face so that you still draw the knife against the welt. Choose carefully though as I cannot replace Sheaths ordered incorrectly.

Right side of the body / Left side of the body?

 

13.  What colour do you want your sheath? Dyeing natural Veg Tan leather is not an exact science due to variable densities and thicknesses of the leather etc. Therefore, I cannot guarantee a specific colour you might have in mind. Many Dyes have various shades to them, so if you say Brown, there are at least six shades of Brown that I have. The way I overcome this is to try and use the right shade to compliment the knife handle. This means I need a bit of leeway so I can do my best to provide you with a harmonious and pleasing end result.

Plain Dark Brown  /  Medium Brown   /  Mahogany   /   Black   /  Oxblood   /  British Tan  /  Dual colour (Dark and Light Brown tones as for an Antique type finish)?

 

14.  How would you like your Sheath finished? A plain Sheath with just my maker’s stamp? A Sheath with some light embossing to frame the front panel? A Sheath with a fully embossed front panel? As Veg Tan leather is not as mark proof as Chromed pre-finished leather, therefore, a plain Sheath might have some slight marks which are caused during the build process and not obvious until the dyeing/finishing stage! If you're after a totally pristine virgin like plain Sheath, then please do not place a knife order from me. There are many examples of Sheaths on my website, you can get a fair idea of what to go for in terms of decorative appeal etc.

Plain-ish Sheath / Framed Front Panel / Full front panel?

 

15.Want more meaningful embossing? In addition to normal decorative embossing, I can also emboss any one of the following large (25mm square) embossing stamps: an Eagle in flight; a Bison’s head; a leaping Salmon; an Eagle’s head; a Wolf’s head; a Deer head; an Animal paw print. The actual embossing stamps can be viewed at the bottom of this page: http://www.customknivesandsticks.co.uk/news.htm  and Select #3 from the index at the top.

If yes, Which Wildlife stamp would you like?
 

16.    Would you like me to emboss your Initials (two letters or three letters max) on the sheath? This is meant to personalise your Sheath some more. Unfortunately, there is only space for two letters side by side. I can do three letters, but these will have to be one atop the other or one over two. Two letters always looks best though.

If yes, what are the two letters? _____ / _____ /______ ?  16b: Back or front of the sheath?

 

17.    Please let me have your full postal address, including post code, of where I should send the knife when finished: Before I send the knife I’ll always contact you to confirm that you’re able to receive the knife on a particular day as I always send knives via Royal Mail Next Day by 1pm special delivery. Please make sure you tell me if you change your address at some time during the knife build.
 

18.     Please provide me with a contact number just in case I need to contact you: It would have to be something I need an answer to very quickly for me to call you, but one never knows what might crop up.
 

19.     Methods of Payment: Direct Bank transfer; Personal Cheque; PayPal. There are no charges associated with the first two options, but PayPal will charge me 4% of the total cost. Therefore, I’ll need to charge an extra 4% to cover the charges. I do not accept cash or Postal orders by post.

Which payment method is best for you: Direct Bank transfer; Personal Cheque or PayPal?   

 

Please note that your details are never passed on to anyone and you can be 100% certain that at no time will you ever get unsolicited e-mails from me no matter what! I'll only respond to valid e-mails that are sent to me. I hate SPAM with a vengeance, so please don’t ever abuse my trust and send me details about some get rich scheme or other marketing crap!!! I'll always do right by you and that's a promise you can bank on!

 

Final notes:

 

Disappointingly, I’ve been let down on too many an occasion to continue having my time wasted and taking losses for no valid reason. Therefore, an order is only considered confirmed and active once payment in full has been received.

   

How long have you got to wait for your knife? Except for the pre-Xmas period, the approximate turnaround time averages 12 to 15 weeks.  As a matter of course, however, I will always strive to have the knife finished and sent off to you earlier rather than later whenever possible as it’s of no gain to either of us for me to keep you waiting unnecessarily. It is only in exceptional unfavourable health related circumstances that I will ever request for an extension to my original stated turnaround time.

        

I’d rather be making knives than spend my time online! That said, I shall not stint at dealing with any aspects of the knife build until such time that we are both clear as to what’s required. I appreciate that not everybody who contacts me about making them a knife has the necessary technical knowledge and experience to know the ins-and-outs of knife making. I’m therefore happy to advise you on any knife making aspect so that you can make an informed choice. What I cannot do is to make choices for you. That’s because a custom knife is meant to be unique to you; for your intended pleasure and for your pride in ownership and use – I’m merely the means to a mutually pleasing and fulfilling end.

   

Last but not least - At some time towards the end of your knife build, on having made enough progress to be able to give you a fair indication of a possible finish date, I shall contact you with an update. I am very well aware that a lot of folk are far less patient than they believed themselves to be; even less so when it comes to something one desires and longs for. I can only ask for you to bear with me and try not to keep emailing me asking what progress I’ve made, as that is counterproductive. The thing is that I really do care and it is in my interest to serve you to the best of my ability. Perhaps one ought to consider that all that is done well enough, is done quick enough - haste and short cuts will always lead to disappointment… Thank you for choosing to work with me.

 

Paul (aka) Frenchy

 

 

 

OK, now for part two - the bare bones questions to which you can add your responses: 

 

KNIFE BUILD OPTIONS AND SPECIFICATIONS’ RELATED QUESTIONNAIRE 

    

    Please complete the questionnaire to the best of your ability and e-mail it back to me. The best way to do so is as follows:

1.  After you’ve read this e-mail, highlight and copy only the questions numbered 1 to 19. (Use 'Rich Text' format).

2.  Start a new email to me by way of replying and then paste what you’ve copied in it.

3. Then enter your replies where appropriate in CAPITAL LETTERS please, so they stand out – bold would be even better for me.

4. Add any comments you wish me to take note of in the relevant question space as you go along.

5. Once completed as best that you can manage, send me the e-mail and await my response.

   

    On receiving your completed questionnaire I’ll check it through and if everything is OK I’ll confirm it and send you a summary and total inclusive cost, together with payment details.

However, if anything needs further clarification, I’ll advise you accordingly.

 

HIGHLIGHT AND COPY FROM HERE ALL THE WAY DOWN TO #19 >>>

1.       Which Knife model would you like me to make for you?

The TALISMAN MK4 (D2 steel) – 5mm thick – Scandi grind – the leader of the pack!

The TALISMAN MK3 (440c Surgical Steel) - 4mm thick – Scandi grind – Low maintenance - so ideal for knife for when a stainless steel one is called for.

The TALISMAN MK3 (Damascus Steel) - 4mm thick – Scandi grind, but can be had a secondary grind so as to preserve the pattern.

The GUARDIAN (D2 Steel) – 5mm thick – Scandi grind – no ordinary Bushcraft tool; beautiful and very practical.

The DL1 (D2 Steel) – 4mm thick – Scandi grind - not too dissimilar to the original Woodlore, but slightly larger.

The ALLROUNDER (D2 Steel) - 4mm thick – Scandi grind – the name says it all.

The ALLROUNDER (440C Surgical Steel) - 4mm thick – Scandi grind – Low maintenance

-  very useful knife for when a stainless steel one is called for.

The SHADOW (D2 Steel) - 4mm thick – Scandi grind – Quite a traditional Bushcraft type knife in profile, but overall more substantial.

The BEAVER (D2 Steel) - 4mm thick – Scandi grind – A very handy compact knife for use on its own or paired up with the Shadow.

The SHADOW/BEAVER SET – (D2 Steel) - 4mm/4mm – Scandi grind - Good combo and you save a bit of money too.

 

ONE OF THE SPECIAL LIMITED MODELS – Damasteel, RWL-34 etc. – Can you state which one exactly please?

 

The CSK185 WILKINSON SWORD DARTMOOR CUSTOM KNIFE MK2 (440c steel) As of July 2015 with a strong full Scandi grind that I apply myself from scratch!

 

The VALIANT - (D2 Steel) - A versatile large Bush tool for small and big jobs - a big fat Leuku as that's what it's based on! Ideal partner to the Guardian (but not in a Piggyback Sheath!!!) A discount will apply when the Valiant and the Guardian are bought as a set.

   

2.  What type of cutting edge would you like your knife to have?

A single primary Scandi grind that is sharpened on Japanese type Whetstones?

A primary grind as for the Scandi, but with an added Secondary grind that is sharpened on a Fixed Angle sharpening system?

 

3.  What type of handle material would you like your knife to have?  You can choose handle materials here http://www.customknivesandsticks.co.uk/antlerhornwood.htm If in doubt check with me, but don’t ask me to choose for you.

   

    1st preference:

    2nd preference:

            3rd preference:

   

4.  What colour Fibre Liners would you like?    Dark Red, Bright Red, Black, White, Blue, Grey,

Yellow or Green?

   

5.  What size hands would you like me to contour the handle for?    Small, Medium or Large?

    

6.  What kind of handle retaining pins would you like?  Standard Brass / Silvered Steel (As an upgrade option you can have Mosaic pins for an additional cost of £5 per knife)?

   

7.  The standard Sheath comes with a stitched fixed length 2”+ belt loop. In addition to which you can have an adjustable and detachable Dangler loop with a ‘D’ ring which makes the knife still accessible when wearing Parkas etc.

    

    So, would you like to have the extra Dangler Loop at £5 extra per dangler loop?      Yes/No?

    

8.  Do you want a Firesteel loop incorporated into the Sheath at £5 extra per loop?    Yes / No?

 

9.  Do you want a Firesteel with similar handle material as the knife at £10 each?    Yes / No? 

    

10.    Do you want a Ceramic Rod sharpener with similar handle material as the knife at £10 each?

Yes / No?

 

Sheath Related Questions: 11 to 19

   

11. Which hand would you normally use to work with the knife?                Left hand / Right hand?

   

12. Which side of your body will you normally wear the Sheath?                Right side / Left

side?

(This will ensure that you have a right side or left side Sheath so that you’re always drawing and sheathing the knife against the welt. Therefore, if you’re left handed then you would normally wear the Sheath on your right side. If you’re right handed, you’ll normally wear the Sheath on your left side. If you want to wear the sheath on the same side of the hand you want to draw with, then it’s still the Sheath will be such that you still draw against the Welt.) 

 

13.    What shade of colour would you like the Sheath? The dyeing of veg tan leather by hand is not

an exact science, so all finishes are as near as I can get them to the colour requested. 

 

Plain Dark Brown  /  Plain Medium Brown  /  Plain Mahogany  /  Plain Black  /  Plain Oxblood  / Plain Maroon  /  Dual colour - Dark and Light Brown tones as for an Antique type finish to compliment the knife’s handle?

 

14.    How would you like your Sheath finished?

 

Fairly plain sheath with minimal highlighting and just my maker’s stamp on the bottom front?

Light embossing along the edges enough to frame the main front panel?

More detailed embossing to enhance the front panel?

 

15. In addition to normal decorative embossing, I can also emboss any one of the following large (25mm square) embossing stamps:

An Eagle in flight; a Bison’s head; a leaping Salmon; an Eagle’s head; a Wolf’s head; a Deer head; an Animal paw print. The actual embossing stamps can be viewed at the bottom of this webpage:

http://www.customknivesandsticks.co.uk/news.htm (or select #3 from the index at the top).

 

If yes, Which Wildlife stamp would you like?

 

16.    Would you like me to emboss your Initials (two letters max side by side or three one over the

other) on the sheath?

(These will be towards the bottom half of the Sheath just above my maker’s mark).

If yes, what are the two or three letters? _____ / _____ /_____?

 

16b: Would you like them at the front or the back of the Sheath?

 

17.    Please let me have your full postal address, including post code, as it should be written on

the address label:

 

 

18.    Please provide me with a contact number just in case I need to contact you:

(Please note that your details are never passed on to anyone and you can be 100% certain that at no time will you ever get any marketing e-mails from me no matter what! I hate SPAM, so I expect you to show respect towards me and not send me any marketing crap either!!!)

 

19.    Which method of method of Payment is most suitable to you?:

 

Via Direct Bank transfer?

Via Personal Cheque?

Via PayPal – in which case please add 4% of total to cover their charges.

(Relevant payment details will be sent to you once all aspects of the knife build specifications are mutually agreed upon).

 

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